nWaitrose is well known for having a closer relationship than most with its suppliers, and for having sophisticated and credible sustainability policies. However, in terms of its fish counters, it's going further, in some cases - such as the new store in Marylebone High Street, central London - providing virtually all of the offer fresh, not frozen. How does it manage that?
Gary Grace, project coordinator for meat, poultry, fish and dairy buying, told MB&R how fish gets from the Icelandic seas to store: "All of our cod is line-caught. We have full traceability on our fish so we can tell they are from Iceland's controlled waters. If you catch undersized fish you tell the authorities - they radio all the boats, and it's stopped.
"We can buy cheaper fish, but it won't be from sustainable sources. Sustainability has a price.
"Our fish sold on the counter is fresh; now and then we will sell clearly labelled previously frozen fish. We are investigating freezing different products because of issues like fuel.
"Using the 'Torry scale' of fish quality, we'll get fish fresher in the store than you would get it from Billingsgate - because it comes straight from the supplier. Our Icelandic fish will come in overnight to our depot, then packed in boxes for store, and will leave the depot that night. You could get fish that was swimming on Monday in the store on Wednesday."
Grace says the proof of the benefits of focusing on quality is clear: "We have 10% of the fish market in this country, against 4% of the grocery sales. That's built on quality".
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